Hi guys 👋,
Today I wanted to work on one of my pattern staples, the Coco by Tilly and the Buttons. It's a very versatile and beginner-friendly project, perfect to start using knit fabric if you've never sewn it before. I probably have dozens of different Cocos in my wardrobe: with the funnel roll neck, without, with a yoke, as a top, a tunic, as a nightdress ... So I decided to use this gorgeous textured jersey fabric to make another Coco, but this time I decided to do a quick alteration to give it bell sleeves and inseam pockets, so let's see how it went!
First of all, you need to get your pattern. You can choose between PDF or paper version: https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/coco
ALTERATION 1: BELL SLEEVES
The first bit is to turn your regular sleeve into what is called a bell sleeve. I traced the pattern for the sleeve, then marked where my elbow is on the paper pattern, and traced a line at this level. This is the top part of my sleeve. For the bell part, I measured the distance from my wrist to where the top part of my sleeve would meet, adding an inch for the seam allowance (we're using half an inch SA) and an inch 5/8 for the bottom hem. That is my width. For the length, I wanted it fairly gathered, but not extremely wide either, I think it's everything but convenient, especially to eat ;)
So I measured the bottom bit of my sleeve, in my case it was 12" long, and I added 10" so all in, my bell part of the sleeve was 22" long and 12 and 5/8" wide.
I hemmed the bottom of the bell bit, and gathered the top of the bell bit until it matches with my top sleeve, and then I sewn them together. You should get that result:
ALTERATION 2: INSEAM POCKETS
Now, for your inseam pockets, you can download your free PDF pattern here by becoming a member for free: https://www.seweasypeasy.com/members
Print your pattern at 100% scale using Adobe only, and cut 2 pairs of mirrored pockets like so:
Then, follow the instructions of the pattern : sew the neckline and the shoulders, then pin your dress right side together and pass it on. Using an erasable pen, mark the place you want your pockets to be, like shown on this picture below:
Then you can pin where your pocket piece should be sewn :
And then pin to mark the pockets on the other side of your dress. Fold your dress up in the middle to make sure it will be nice and straight (like on the picture above where you can see the dress placed on the fold)
Now you can place your pocket pieces, right side together
Then you sew your pocket using a 3/8" seam allowance and press it towards the raw edge :
Then you do the same with the back of the dress like so:
Sew the pocket at the back of the dress, press and when you pin the side seams it should look like this:
Now time to sew the side seams. You want to sew this way, like on the picture below:
Here is a close up of the pockets. The straight seam is the seam we've sewn earlier; the side seam you want to sew now are the one following the curve of the pocket.
Trim the corner close to the seam and notch the curve for a nicer finish, press.
Now you can turn your dress right side out, press carefully the sleeves toward the front, and finish your Coco with the hem and it's time to enjoy your new dress!
Please don't hesitate to tag me to show me your makes @seweasypeasy on IG and Twitter using #MakeoftheMonth and on Facebook @seweasypeasyblog, I'm also on Pinterest obviously 😊